In 1812, Grimod de la Reynière, the world's first restaurant critic, put out a recipe for the rôti sans pareil, or roast without equal. It was a 17-bird version of the turducken, though no record exists of whether it was actually made. It was a bustard stuffed with a turkey-goose-pheasant-chicken-duck-guinea fowl-teal-woodcock-partridge-plover-lapwing-quail-thrush-lark-ortolan-bunting and garden warbler, the last being just big enough to hold an olive.
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